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Ecology

Thoughts on the Appalachian Trail

Nate Shank
Strawberry Hill Nature Preserve Naturalist

(4/2019) At almost 2,200 miles, the Appalachian National Scenic Trail stretches from Maine to Georgia. The trail meanders through fourteen states, including Maryland and Pennsylvania. The Appalachian Mountain range is one of the most diverse natural areas in the United States. The forests, temperatures, plants, lakes, animals, and people you meet along the trail vary drastically. Whether you want to thru-hike, hike the trail in sections, day hike, or become a weekend warrior, I recommend at least going into the wilderness and breathing in the fresh air to experience a land untouched by the hands of man.

In the southern Appalachians, you have rolling mountains and balds. It is still a mystery as to why these balds exist. In the mid-Appalachians, hikers often encounter wild ponies, rattlesnakes and bear. In the north, mountains rise above the tree line, winds blow you off your feet, and weather shifts from sunny and clear to cloudy and rainy in mere minutes.

The elevation gain and loss while hiking the Appalachian Trail is equivalent to climbing Mt. Everest sixteen times. The highest elevation on the trail is down south on Clingmans Dome in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park at 6,625 feet. The lowest elevation, at just 124 feet, is in New York near the Trailside Museum and Zoo at Bear Mountain. The most notable of these peaks is Mt. Katahdin in Maine, where most people finish their thru-hike. The view at this northern terminus displays the expanse of lakes and small conifers that envelope the wilderness ahead for those going south.

When I was hiking the trail, I found myself continually amazed by the expansive majesty and grandeur of God's creation. At times, the scenic vistas may seem few and far between, but it all depends on your perspective. When you see the beauty of creation in every living thing, you begin to see the true beauty right in front of you.

In Maine, birch and small conifers surround the trail where the trees and deer do not grow very large due to the shorter growing season. Further south, into New Hampshire and Vermont, you will see maple groves where the trees are tapped for syrup and lines connect for miles through the woods. In the Mid-Atlantic States, you will find some of the largest oaks in the entire country.

Pennsylvania might be known for its rocks, but native forests can be exciting, too! For example, the pitch pine will grow along the rocky ridges proving how resilient trees can be when faced with what seems to be impossible. As you go south, you will see trees like the pawpaw that has a fruit similar in shape to a pear. All the while, as you hike the Appalachian Trail, you will find that it is truly a green tunnel from Maine to Georgia.

What I discovered on my journey is the extreme importance in planning ahead. While many people utilize the trail for day hikes, to thru-hike means to walk the entire length in a single year. Thru-hikers average 165 days to complete their trek on the trail. In 2012, my journey took 110 days, which totals just over twenty miles a day. The fastest thru-hike ever was completed in just 41 days. To accomplish this kind of feat, one must hike about 50 miles a day. I walked 36 miles on my longest day, from Roan Mountain to Erwin in Tennessee.

The most common direction for people to hike the trail is northbound. Those who decide to travel from Georgia to Maine are called "northbounders" or "NOBOs". One of the main reasons people hike northbound is because you can get an early start in the year and walk with spring. Many hikers will start in March to hike north with the hope of finishing by September before the winter snow.

A less common way to hike is southbound, or "SOBO", from Maine to Georgia. It is important to note that the northern terminus on Mt. Katahdin can be very dangerous to climb even in the summer. Due to the hazardous conditions, it is closed from October to May every year. Because SOBO is less common, I decided it was the way I wanted to hike the trail myself.

There are over 260 three-walled shelters along the Appalachian Trail for hikers to camp. Over the years, these shelters have seen more and more use. During peak season, the impact from hikers on plants and wildlife can be devastating. It is important to stay in designated camp sites and on durable surfaces like the shelters and tent pads established along the trail. Furthermore, many people do not realize the importance of hiking on durable surfaces, which lowers human impact on the surrounding flora. Of course, this can be challenging for hikers facing Vermont black mud or Pennsylvania rocks, but should be practiced where possible.

Due to its rocky terrain, Pennsylvania is known as the state where shoes go to die. Most thru-hikers will go through roughly four or five pairs of shoes. The shoes I began with in Maine were leather dress shoes on top and rubber hikers on the bottom. I made them last longer than they should have and received the nickname "Dress Shoes" while on the trail.

One shelter that I remember very well was near Mount Greylock in Massachusetts. Before I went to sleep that night, I decided to hang my backpack (packed with my food) above my feet inside the shelter. After I had fallen to sleep, I woke to some rustling in the shelter. Thinking that I was going to be greeted by another hiker, I looked up to say hi. Before I said a word, I noticed my pack swinging above me.

When I sat up, I realized that my trash bag had been torn off of my pack, the trash thrown onto my feet and on the ground outside of the shelter. When I took a closer look, I noticed the silhouette of something large and foreboding with glaring eyes looking back at me. A bear had reached over me, trying to take my backpack. I decided to place my entire pack in the iron bear-proof box that was not far from the shelter.

On the way to this box, I heard the bear lurking beside me, but just out of my view. At this point, I decided to yell. That did nothing. So then, I began hitting things around me. That still did nothing. I then tried to growl at the bear. To my surprise, the bear growled back! At this point, all I could do was throw my pack in the iron box and get back to the shelter. After returning to safety, I could hear the bear trying to get into the box, which was fine as long as it was not bothering me. The most amazing thing happened; I was able to sleep soundly despite having a ravenous beast stalk me.

I will say, hiking solo truly allows you to connect with nature in a different way. When I was in the Shenandoah National Park, I experienced one of the best star shows of my life. While lying under the trees in my sleeping bag, I counted nine shooting stars before falling to sleep. Nothing quite compares to the experiences I had while hiking the Appalachian Trail. The experience is one that I would recommend to anyone looking to become closer to nature.

Nate Shank is the Appalachian Trail Museum Manager  at Strawberry Hill.

Strawberry Hill Nature Preserve and Environmental Center is a non-profit environmental education and conservation organization located in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains of south-central Pennsylvania in Fairfield, Pennsylvania. To learn more about all they offer, we encourage you to visit them at 1537 Mt Hope Rd, Fairfield, PA 17320, or visit them on-line at www.strawberryhill.org